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Corn!

 

I always get a lot of questions about malting corn and it’s been on my “to-do” list for years. So many projects, so little time! Fortunately I recently received this great description from a fellow home maltster Jonathan Shockley who is having some success using popcorn. I can’t wait to try this.

“For starters, I have found that yellow popcorn works much better than white. Not sure why, but the white doesn’t germinate as evenly. My process is as follows. Start with 4 pounds of yellow popcorn. The starting moisture content was around 13.5%. This seems to be a general characteristic of popcorn, because apparently it won’t pop unless the moisture content is above 13.5% and of course any higher and you would risk spoilage. Steeped in de-chlorinated water for 8 hours, with 8 hours rest in between. It took only 3 steeps to reach about 45% moisture. On previous batches I found that even after 5 steeps the corn would only take up so much. Don’t really understand why that is. The steeping was done at 73F for both steep and air rest. I also let the air rest take place in a colander so there would be airflow under and over, and any residual moisture would trickle out. Not sure if this was necessary, but I spray StarSan on everything during the steeping, and germination process, even the spoon I stir with. The germination took about 5 days. It’s hard to check corn the way you do other grains, as the rub test doesn’t really work. I find I have to cut the kernel with a knife, and dig out the starch. Anyway, I have decided to stop germination when the acrospires is just longer than the grain. This is slightly more modified than barley, but the total diastatic power of popcorn under the best of circumstances is only about 40 Lintner (based on what I’ve read online). I have never had problems with mold during germination. I dry out the popcorn for 2 days over a fan with about 90 degrees F (it’s summer in Virginia and very hot in my attic). After that, I took the popcorn and kilned it at about 140F for 8 hours. My goal was to preserve as much DP as possible. I’m pretty sure every batch of popcorn malt I’ve made has been ok. Where I mess up is on the mash, which I think I finally have figured out. As you mentioned to me in a previous email, you have to use a decantation. I use a 1 to 1 water to grain ratio. I start by milling the popcorn almost to flour. You have to use a fine mesh brew bag for this to work. I start the mash at 140F for 30 minutes. This gets the enzymes activated. I then decant off about ¾ of the liquid and set it aside. I add the same amount of water as liquid removed and bring it to a boil. FYI, it’s a little messy. After the corn has gelatinized, I let it cool some then add back the removed wort. I make sure the temperature is around 150 and then just let it sit for about 2 hours. After all that, I check the gravity and do an iodine test. My last attempt yielded a wort around 1030 and iodine test was negative. This next part may not be necessary, but after the mash, the wort looked horrible. I have a large refrigerator (and it was late) so I put the kettle in the refrigerator and left it overnight. The next morning all the sediment in the wort had settled and I had about 2 gallons of clear wort. The color of the wort was much darker than I had expected. I then decanted off just the clear liquid and proceeded with the boil.”

Thank-you Jonathan!

I’ve also come across this historical text regarding corn in the American Practical Brewer and Tanner by Joseph Coppinger 1815: Indian Corn Malt, a Valuable Auxiliary to Brewing Materials. A very interesting read:

This species of grain well managed, and made into malt, will be found alike useful to the brewer and distiller, but it is peculiarly adapted to the brewing of porter; further, it is known to possess more saccharine matter than any other grain used in either brewing or distilling, joined to the advantage of not interfering with the season for malting barley, as this should commence when the former ceases. The summer months are the fittest for malting this kind of grain, and can be only very defectively made at any other season, as it requires a high temperature to force germination, and cause it to give out all its sweet. The following process, it is expected, will be found to answer every purpose wished for: suppose your steep to contain sixty bushels, after you have levelled it off, let on your water as directed in malting barley; you should give fresh water to your steep at the end of twenty-four hours. If it is southern corn you are malting, it will require to remain in steep seventy-two hours in the whole; if it be northern corn, it will require ninety-six hours, there being a considerable difference in the density of these two kinds of grain; the hardest, of course, requires the most water; and, in all cases, the fresher Indian corn is from the cob the better it will malt. When you have accomplished the necessary time in your steep, you let off your water; and, when sufficiently drained, let it down in your couch frame, where it will require turning once in twelve hours, in order to keep it of equal temperature; the depth of the grain should be about two feet and a half in the frame; as it begins to germinate and grow, open your frame, and thin it down at every turning, until you reduce its thickness to six or seven inches; thus extending it on your lower floor, turning it more frequently, as the growth is rapid. The vegetation of the grain, together with the turning, will by this time make the watering pot necessary; the criterion by which you will judge of its fitness for the water, is as soon as you perceive the root or acrospire begins to wither. Two thirds of your water is to be distributed over the surface of your couch for the first watering, which will require thirty-two gallons, and when turned back again, sixteen gallons for the second watering, making in the whole forty-eight gallons of water to sixty bushels of corn. This water should be put on with a gardener’s watering pot, as equally as possible. Supposing this pot to contain four gallons, it will make eight pots for the first watering, and four for the second. In this stage of the operation the turnings on the floor should be very frequent, in order to keep the grain cool, as the heat of the weather, at this season, will be sufficient to promote and perfect the vegetation. The second day after the first watering, if the blade is not sufficiently grown, water again, but in less quantity, say one half. It will be now four or five days more before the couch is ready for the kiln, which will be ascertained by the blade becoming the full length of the corn. After this it should be thrown on the upper floor, and suffered to wither for a couple of days, turning it frequently; by this time the blade will have a yellow appearance, the grain will become tender, and, if tasted, be found uncommonly sweet; in this state it may be committed to the kiln, and dried in the usual way.

N. B. It will generally take ten days after it is out of the steep to perfect the malting of southern corn, and twelve days for northern. (this includes kilning)

 

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Posted by on September 13, 2018 in Corn

 

Rye Malt

10 lbs Rye at 12.6% moisture steeped to 42%

Steeped 8 hrs + 8 hr air rest + another 4 hr steep  (target steep weight 15 lbs) 12° C (53.6°F).

Germinated at 16° C (60.8°F ) for 6 days 1 additional day at 21° C (69.8 ° F). Acrospires 1/2 length of grain.

Kilning for Pale:

24 hrs 37-43° C  (98.6-109.4° F) (malt temperature)

8 hrs. at 60° C (140° F)

1 hr. 175° F (79.4° C)

1 hr. 180° F (82.2° C)

2 hrs. 185° F (85° C)

Caramel :

1 lb. green malt stewed at 158° F (70° C) (malt temp) for 2 hr (recommend 3 hrs)

Cover removed 2 hrs. at 200° F (93.3° C) to dry.

30 min. at 250° F (121° C)

Chocolate: Pale malt roasted at 400° F (204.4° C) for 40 min.

Brewing: 

1 hr at 109° F (42.8° C) pH adjusted with acid malt to 5.1 – Recommend 2 hrs.

45 min. at 150° F (65.6° C) pH adjusted to 5.3

Pre-boil grav. 1.037

O.G. 1.045

F.G. 1.0079

A.B.V. 4.78 %

 

 
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Posted by on September 4, 2018 in Rye Malt

 

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Garden Update May 20 2018

April 9

This creepy creation is a last-minute improvisation made with clothes from a giveaway bag that was in my trunk. The head was made from a pillow-case stuffed with remay. Looks kinda stupid but it worked. The crows left these little seedlings alone. This is two weeks after planting.

 

 

May 6

 

 

 

 

 

Actually had some frost damage in April, that’s why it looks a little sparse on the bottom right.

 

 

 

Weeding has been much easier this year thanks to the rows. I still planted by broadcasting the seeds but before I did this I made 5 furrows per bed, so when I broadcast the seeds they more or less fell into the furrows. I then dragged my hoe in between to bury them.

May 12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s what it’s looking like today, the Chevalier (front three beds) is racing ahead of the Maris Otter. I’ve installed the anti-lodging chicken wire for these and left the Maris Otter since it’s easier to weed without the chicken wire in the way.

May 20

 
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Posted by on May 21, 2018 in Garden videos

 

Garden Update Spring 2018

It’s been way too long since I’ve posted anything. I’ve been super busy with a new job but I still have plenty of malting projects on the go and many more ideas I want to try. I’m currently brewing an ale made from a malt that germinated for 14 days. I also made malt with an accelerated schedule that took only 5 days start to finish as well as brewing a small beer with 100% unmalted barley, but more on these later.

Firstly, I want to thank all the people that have purchased one of my books. I’m quite happy with how the Malting Log book turned out and I’ve been using it for the last few batches of malt that I’ve made. I have to say it’s pretty darn handy.

I did have some problems formatting the Malting At Home book as a reviewer on Amazon has pointed out (the rest of the review is very positive so thank-you Jeremiah!). For some reason, Amazon direct publishing does not, at this time, recognize Google documents. So I had to turn my google documents into  Word documents and when I did this the formatting gets really screwy. I’ve corrected the spacing issues as best as I can but it’s not perfect. I’m sure there are better ways to do this but if you’re planning on self-publishing I would highly recommend starting with Word right from the start. I also wanted more pictures but knowing I wouldn’t have the time available for at least four months I decided to get it out sooner than later. I am however very happy with all of the recipes I’ve managed to compile and I was pretty excited when I realized I could use Google translate to read some German and French texts that included some very useful information. I think having all these recipes in one book is handy because surprisingly most of the big expensive modern text books are kind of lacking in actual recipes or kilning schedules.

I managed to get to the garden yesterday to plant this years barley. I actually had more Chevalier seed than expected and managed to plant 3 beds with Chevalier. I planted another 3 beds with Maris Otter and there’s a narrow bed that I had planted with the small amount of Bere seed I had.

From the other side looking north.

 

As you can see I’m not taking any chances here and covered everything to prevent the birds and squirrels from digging out the seeds. I’ll remove the covers in about two weeks.

 

 

 

As I was prepping the soil and removing some weeds I pulled out some beets that were perfectly preserved from last year. They had been covered up with a pile of weeds and straw. We ate them that night and they were like new. We also had some kale shoots which are very mild and not bitter at all. Here’s a shot of the kale “tree” I left in the garden over winter. I also planted a Fuji apple tree on the north side of the garden.

More kale!

Kale shoots

Fuji apple tree

Beets

In total I have about 530 square feet of barley planted this year and I’m hoping to get about 40 lbs. of barley from this.

 
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Posted by on March 26, 2018 in Garden videos

 

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New Malting Book!

It’s finally here all the recipes on the blog and more, in one convenient place. Yes you can make malt at home, it’s not only possible but it’s a lot of fun. Take your home brewing to the next level!

Check out the table of contents:



Table of Contents 2

Introduction 4

Malting Simplified 7

Getting started 10

Equipment and some Terminology 10

Steeping, Germination, Kilning and Curing 16

Moisture Content 21

Growing and Harvesting 24

Threshing and Winnowing 33

Feed Barley 35

Recipes: Pale Malt 39

Pilsner/ Lager Malt 43

Historical Malting 47

Modern Malting 53

Vienna Malt 56

Toasted Malts 58

Victory, Biscuit and Amber 58

The Melanoidin Family 61

Aromatic, Munich, and Melanoidin Malts 61

Brumalt 61

Munich Malt 63

Melanoidin/ Brumalt 72

Caramel Malts 74

Special B Type Malt 76

Making Caramel malt from Pale malt 77

Roasted Malts 78

Chocolate, Roasted Malt, Roasted Barley 78

Debittered Black Patent Malt 80

Brown Malts 82

Belgian Malt for Lambic 89

Acid Malt 90

Wheat 91

Oats 92

Spelt and Emmer 93

Bibliography 94

 
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Posted by on January 15, 2018 in Malting at Home Book

 

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Accelerated malting

I’ve been focussing a lot lately on historical malting because I find it so interesting how malting has changed so drastically over the past 150 years. This has caused me to wonder what a malting schedule looks like today, what are the times and temperatures used in an industrial scale malting plant. I came across a great article investigating the optimal malting times and temperatures using modern barley varieties. An accelerated malting procedure – influences on malt quality and cost savings by reduced energy consumption and malting losses by Christian Muller and Frank-Jurgen Methner can be read for free. In this study they use 5 different barley cultivars to compare 5 different malting and kilning programs which include for reference, a standard laboratory program according to MEBAK [Mitteleuropäische Brautechnische Analysenkommission (Central European Commission for Brewing Analysis)] a program applied to an industrial malting plant and three accelerated schedules based on previous studies.

Here is the optimal accelerated program:

Steeping

  • 1st steep 5.5 hours at 22°C
  • Dry rest 18 Hours at 21°C (which would also include CO2 extraction by fan)
  • 2nd steep 1 1/4 hours at 20°C

Note: water is absorbed much faster at warmer temperatures, it was also found that malt homogeneity was greater with warmer steep temperatures.

Germination:

  • 8 hours at 20°C
  • 24 hours at 21°C
  • 42 hours at 20°C

Kilning:

  • 6.5 h 37.5°C
  • 4.5 h 40°C
  • 2.5 h 45°C
  • 2 h 50°C
  • 2 h 55°C
  • 1.5 h 60°C
  • 4 h 80°C
  • 1 h 82°C

Total time 123 hours! That’s just over 5 days start to finish.

Advantages: Aside from the obvious amount of time saved there were other advantages when compared with the standard laboratory and industrial programs.These were: reduced proteolytic modification, higher oxidative flavour stability, higher malt homogeneity (more consistent germination), improved cytolytic modification (degradation of beta-glucans) and the lautering performance was not negatively influenced. Neither was the DON content, surprisingly. Another advantage was less DMS-P which could mean less kilning and boiling time is needed to reduce the DMS-P content in the malt or wort.

Disadvantages were a slightly decreased extract value owing to a higher pH value and a slightly lower activity of the a and B- amylase enzymes.

I think I’ll try this, perhaps I’ll make it a Modern malt vs. Historical malt comparison, 5 days vs. 3 weeks! I was going to do that anyway but this will be the recipe I’m going to use for the modern malt. For the historical, I’ll probably combine the William Ellis 1736 method with what’s in the Scotch Bigg report (1806) and a 3-4 day kilning based on Levy’s Practique du Maltage “Malt Anglais”.

 

 

 
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Posted by on January 6, 2018 in Modern malting

 

Blown vs. Brown malt

Blown malt left, Brown #1 on right

Diastatic brown malt is a dark malt kilned over a fire fueled with coal, wood or straw which has enough diastatic power to convert itself. Made during a time before the widespread use of thermometers and hydrometers the colours and level of diastatic power would have varied between maltsters. An essential source of information on malts of this time comes from the London and Country Brewer by William Ellis published in 1736.

Times for kilning malts is described as being either 4, 6 or 12 hours with the “pale sort” requiring “more leisure and less fire than the amber or brown sorts”  But is it really that simple?

In my previous attempts to make diastatic brown malt a couple of years ago I didn’t think I was successful in answering the question that has been bugging me since the first time I read the London and Country Brewer and that is; how was malt dried in 4 hours with high heat, able to maintain some diastatic power, since enzymes are destroyed very rapidly over 221°F.

Modern brown malt is kilned at a high temperature, 350°F from it’s green stage, right after germination. It will not have any diastatic power.

We do know that brown malt did not have the same diastatic power as pale from the description of kilning brown malt.   “…is often crusted and burnt, that the farinous part losses a great deal of it’s essential Salts and vital Property, which frequently deceives it’s ignorant brewer, that hopes to draw as much Drink from a quarter of this, as he does from pale or amber sorts” (pg.14). What we don’t know are the kilning temperatures.

Some 70 years after this publication a study of brewing industry practices was carried out to determine if Bere barley grown in Scotland should be taxed at the same rate as English barley. The Scotch Bigg Report (Thomas, Coventry and Hope)  presented to the British Parliament in 1806 contains some of the earliest empirical data on brewing and malting collected on a large scale and includes kilning temperatures. This report also pre-dates the development of Black Patent malt (1817). Malts were still referred to at this time as either pale, amber and brown. What I found very surprising in this report is that a temperature of 170°F is given for brown malt which is the same curing temperature for pale malt.  “Malt may be made brown at a lower temperature for it is not so much the temperature, as the suddenness with which it raised, while the malt is still moist, which alters the colour.” Pg. 33 However, they also recorded some maltsters kilning at temperatures of 186°F and suspected some kilned as high as 212°F.

So how does it get dark?   With Munich malt temperatures are raised while there is 20-25% moisture in the malt causing a partial caramelization and it is more highly modified which encourages melanoidin formation upon kilning making a darker malt. It’s also kilned at a higher temperature as well but even Aromatic malt is not as dark as I would imagine a porter being at the time. In my experiments trying to make brumalt I somewhat accidentally achieved a very dark malt by stewing the malt in the proteolytic temperature range of 44-59°C or 113-138°F. So I looked for some clues to see if there was something in the older methods of malting that would promote more Maillard reactions, perhaps if using traditional methods the malt would darken to a greater degree.

One major difference between malting today and back then is the use of continuous un-aerated steeping. In another blog post I tested the theory of un-aerated steeping and it’s effect on slowing the growth of barley and it certainly does, The reason germination times were so long is because of this and to some degree the cooler temperatures. Aerated steeping is a relatively new development (150 years) in the malting industry and was utilized successfully or more consistently due to the development of pneumatic malting. This subject is probably worthy of a book so I’ll stop right here. So in order to mimic the old malting methods I would need to use a continuous steep. There is a theory that because a continuous steep delays chitting that the barley absorbs water more consistently. With aerated steeps the grain usually starts to chit before the last steep. This may cause water to absorb faster at the embryo end as opposed to along the entire length of the endosperm, so the same amount of water may be absorbed but with one end being slightly drier and therefore may affect modification. Chitting during steeping can also cause over steeping which can lead to uncontrolled growth and high malting loss. (Briggs Malts and Malting p.123)

One clue to another difference is in the London and Country Brewer with the mention of a couching phase at the end of germination; “When it is at this degree and fit for the Kiln, (wilted or when “the Root begins to be dead”) it is often practised to put it into a Heap and let it lye twelve Hours before it is turned, to heat and mellow, which will much improve the malt if it is done with moderation and after that time it must be turned every 6 hours during twenty-four.” This is actually very similar to the method used to make Brumalt or Melanoidin malt. The malt is covered and allowed to heat up to 50°C 122°F for 36 hours, only it is not turned and the carbon dioxide eventually stops the growth, but the effect is the formation of reducing sugars and amino acids. Interestingly I found this description in Brewing and Distillation by Thomas and Stewart 1848 “It was formerly the custom in Scotland to pile up the whole grain into a pretty thick heap, and allow it to remain for some time. The consequence is the evolution of a very considerable heat, while at the same time the malt becomes exceedingly sweet.” They go on to say that this is no longer practiced because of malting loss and that “the very same change takes place afterwards in the mash tun, without any loss whatsoever.” 

Lastly, I recently bought a copy of La Practique du Maltage Lucien Levy 1898 and there is a kilning schedule for “Malt Anglais” which states. “It rises as fast as possible to 50 ° (malt temperature and not air). We stay there for about twelve hours.” (Translated from French) It then goes up to 60 for another 12 hours. Interesting! lots of time for proteolytic enzyme activity here especially if it raised to 50° with a high moisture content. However this is not mentioned in the Scotch Bigg report but it does say that kilning takes anywhere from 40-80 hours and that the starting temperature is usually the same as body temperature which is 37°C. With such long kilnings it wouldn’t surprise me that the malt would spend a considerable amount of that time leading up to 50°C and that there would be a lot of enzyme activity during this initial kilning.

I suspected a “hot couch” and some stewing at 50-60°C would definitely add some colour but would it be enough at a kilning temperature under 212°F This will be malt #1

Just to be sure I also planned to make a traditional malt with the hot couch but without the proteolytic stew and just go straight to 205°F for 4 hours. I know with such a high moisture content going this high right away would be bad for the diastatic power but I was more curious to see what effect this would have on colour. This will be malt #2

Blown malt, malt #3

Blown malt on the left, brown on right

In the London and Country Brewer of 1736 a distinction is made between malt that is “blown” and brown malt.

 On the subject of frames, or the materials used for the kiln floor it states “the Iron and Tyled one, were chiefly Invented for drying of brown Malts and saving of Fuel, for these when they come to be thorough hot will make the Corns crack and jump by the Fierceness of their Heat, so that they will be roasted or scorch’d in a little time, and after they are off the Kiln, to plump the Body of the Corn and make it take the Eye, [ What I believe “take the eye” means is that it will simply look better by increasing in volume. In Wigneys 1823 Philosophical Treatise of Malting and Brewing he describes the effect of  sprinkling as “giving to the malt a plump, fair appearance to the eye…” ] Some will sprinkle Water over it that it may meet with better Market. (Malt was sold by volume) But if such malt is not used quickly, it will slacken and lose it’s Spirits to a great Degree, and perhaps in half a year or less may be taken by the Whools (a small insect) and spoiled: Such hasty dryings or scorchings are also apt to bitter the Malt by burning it’s skin, and therefore these Kilns are not so much used now as formerly” This is a criticism of surfaces that conduct or retain too much heat. What he is describing is “blown malt” although he does not refer to it as such. Corns that “crack and jump” and expand in size will occur when temperatures are high and the moisture inside the grain cannot escape fast enough. 

Most recipes for Blown malt after Black Patent malt comes into use refer to it as simply Brown or Porter malt. All the recipes I’ve read dry the malt  to a certain degree first. In Brewing and Distillation by Thomas Thompson and William Stewart (1848)  “Brown or Porter malt is dried by applying the same heat at first as to pale malt, and after it is half dried, by blowing it (as it is termed) on the kiln. This is done by raising the heat as high as the men who turn it on the kiln can possibly stand. This may be stated at 200° for the first turning, and higher afterwards.”  The same thing is stated 50 years later in La Practique Du Maltage: The brown malt or blown is obtained as follows: We take malt half kilned and we carry it in a second kiln heated with a large fire of oak or beech it is installed in layers of 3-4 centimeters.

What also encourages this popping effect is the shrinkage of the pores of the husk which occurs after the “free drying” stage of kilning which happens at around 23% moisture. So if the temperature is raised very rapidly at this point the steam formed will not be able to escape fast enough and the kernel will pop. I suspect the sprinkling of water can increase the malt temperature faster by adding steam to the malt bed. I decided not to try sprinkling water on mine. This time I just wanted to try drying the malt down below 30% and subjecting it to a high heat, above 212°F. I put it in the oven at 350°F which may have been overkill but it sure popped! It sounded sort of like popcorn when it really got going after 20 minutes at this temperature.

Malt #1 Hot couch and 21 hr. stew+ 4 hours at 205-210F

  • Malt #1 Continuous steep until 44% changed water twice
  • 8 day germination. Malt temp. between 11-13°C 52-55°F
  • Hot couch 36 hours in an open cooler to mimic a larger amount of malt. Temp. reached 39°C Turned after 12 hours then every 6.
  • 21 hours kilned lightly covered, closed vents, no fan at around 50°C
  • Moisture now at 28%
  • Kilned for 2 hours at 205*F
  • 2 hours at 210°F

 

  • Malt #2 Continuous steep until 44%
  • 8 day germination 11-13°C 52-55°F
  • Hot couch 36 hours temp. reached 39°C 102°F
  • kilned for 4 hours at 205°F moisture at 14%
  • kilned another hour and a half  at 205°F moisture down to 6% Colour was light!
  • kilned another 2 and a half hours at 210°F (8 hours total kilning) Colour now at around 30L

Malt #2 Hot couch, no stew and 8 hrs. at 205-210.

  • Malt #3 Blown Malt Same steep

    Blown malt #3

  • same germination
  • same hot couch
  • same limited stewing at 50°C 122°F as malt #1
  • Moisture at 28%
  • Kilned for 40 minutes at 350°F
  • Moisture below 5%

Blown malt #3

 

 

Observations: When comparing the Blown malt to malt #1 the colour is almost the same. I was really excited to see how dark #1 got. Much darker than my previous attempts at Brown malt. Because malt #2 remained light, even after 8 hours kilning,  it’s safe to attribute the darkness in colour in malt #1 to the limited stewing phase at 50°C. I ran them all through a mini-mash at 152°F pH adjusted to 5.2 (or as close as possible with a little baking soda or some acid malt) for one hour. I was not using the standardized congress mash, instead, I was using a scaled down version as if I were brewing a 5 gallon batch with 10lb of malt only I was using 4 oz of malt. The math may have gone a little sideways but as long as it was the same for each I thought it would make an interesting comparison.  Of course #1 had the highest brix at 9° and the blown had the lowest at 7°. I was pretty surprised to see that Malt #2 had some diastatic power at 8°. As a control I made another mini-mash the same way with a pale malt and it also scored a 9°.

Mash #2 which did not have the initial lower temperature kilning remained a gloopy mass and the mash did not separate from the wort. This was not surprising as the beta glucans had not been broken down which may show the importance of the enzyme activity during kilning below 50°C 122°F or more specifically in the 37-45°C 98-113°F range .

Malt #2 after mashing notice the lack of separation of wort.

Malt #2 after 5 1/2 hours kilning at 205°F and still light.

 

The flavour of the Blown was bitter and slightly charry like a roasted malt. The interior of some of the kernals was charred while the exterior looked a nice light brown with some darker areas. Malt #1 tasted great nice and malty. As for volume the malt was divided by weight before kilning. After kilning Malt #1 measured 4 1/2 cups. The Blown was 5 cups, a difference of 10% Perhaps it would have been more had I sprayed some water on it during kilning.

 

I know I’ll get a lot of people questioning my methods here they’re not the most scientific, but I think it answered some questions in my mind about the effects of using a proteolytic stewing (or a slow kilning) phase. Also I think it’s safe to say that by omitting any initial drying or even withering phase the London and Country Brewer article has an oversimplified version of the kilning process. That may have been obvious to a lot of people but I know it has caused a lot of debate amongst others.

What I’d like to try is kilning at a lower temperature and raising the temperature when the moisture content is lower around 20%. I’ also like to try making a blown malt at 200-250°F which is where I observed some popping happening during my first attempts at brown malt as I think this may be more historically accurate. But first I think I’ll make a much larger batch for a more historically accurate porter and perhaps this time I’ll get to play with some fire!

Many thanks to Melanie and Andrew at McInnes Farms for supplying me with a big sack of Newdale barley grown 10 minutes away from where I live. These experiments and many more to come will be done with this barley.

Mini mashing

Mini sparge

 
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Posted by on December 27, 2017 in Brown malt, blown malt

 

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Gardening hops, grains, vegetables, and brewing beer in South Louisiana. And they said it couldn't be done....

The Apartment Homebrewer

Brewing small batches of craft beer in a 650 sqft apartment

Bishop's Beer Blog

Just another WordPress.com site

The Quest for Edelstoff

Making Liquid Bread

Home Bruin

The homebrewing adventures of a Boston sports fan

If Not Now, When?

Anthony N. Chandler Photography